Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Tranquebar - The bar of tranquility


A relatively unknown place to many, Tranquebar is undoubtedly one the best short get aways from Chennai.

History: The place holds many distinctions and firsts to its credit. One of the first and few Danish trading posts in India, Tranquebar or Tharangambadi as known in local language was leased by Danish from Maharaja of Tanjore in 1620. The Danish East India Company built a fort here and ruled the place till 1845, when they sold the place to British East India Company for a price of Rs. 12.5 lakh.

It is in Tranquebar where first two Protestant missionaries set their foor in India. Both Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg and Heinrich Pluetschau, who began work in 1705 were Lutherans from Germany and translated the Bible into Tamil and Hindi. They also established India's first printing press in Tranquebar. Another first to the credit of Tranquebar is that the India's first Protestant Church was built here.

Where to stay and what to do: Surprisingly Tranquebar offers a wide range of accommodation with AC rooms costing as low as Rs.600. The Neemrana Group runs three types of properties, including a Tamil Tourism owned Hotel Tamil Nadu. Hotel Tamil Nadu is a budget hotel and quite comfortable and affordable.

Then comes the Nayak House, named after the erstwhile Raja's of Tanjore. The property offers sea view but does not offer the facility of swimming pool and kitchen. You will have to walk to the main property, "The Bunglow on the Beach" to have your lunch or dinner. Not a bad option when this walk can you save you up to 50% on your room rents compared to The Bunglow on the Beach option. Plus you get to walk post your meal.

But you may question my wisdom and advice on saving money, when you visit the property, The Bunglow on the Beach. The property was the house of the British Collector. In early 90's the Taj Group purchased it but for reason unknown, did not restore or renovate the property. In early 2000, the property was purchased by Neemrana Group. The property was damaged during the Tsunami of 2004, that hit the state of Tamil Nadu. The Neemrana group renovated the property without tampering too much with the original layout and aesthetics. The room rents vary from Rs. 3000 to Rs. 6000.



The rooms offer breathtaking view of the sea. Just relax on the lazy chair with a bottle of chilled beer in your hand and listen to noise the waves make. The fresh breeze will just hit your face and your lungs will thank you for giving them air so pure.

If you are interested in history, just look to your left and you will see a 13th Century temple, in ruins. Just move your head to right and you will see a sturdy 16th Century fort, standing tall and challenging the sea.

The Masilamani Nathar Kovil (Kovil means temple in Tamil) was built in 1306 by Maravarman Kulashekhara Pandian. The sea has been slowly taking the structure under the water and now only 1/3rd of the structure is visible and not taken by sea. The Tsunami of 2004 damaged the temple further and made them complete ruins.


The fort also was damaged during Tsunami, but was repaired and is standing strong today. During Danish and British times, the fort was surrounded by a moat and access to the fort was over a drawbridge. This moat today has completely disappeared.


To digest the lovely sea food and lots of wine and beer, walk down to other historical places like Governor’s Bungalow, Commander’s House, Town Gate,



Zion Church, New Jerusalem Church, Van Theylingen’s House, Old Danish Cemetery, Mühldorff’s House, Zeigenbalg Museum, Remnants of Fort Wall and the five Tamil houses, restored by Intach.





Weather: Tranquebar is said to have the highest Ozone concentration in India. While the temperature and climate are very similar to Chennai, the almost negligible level of pollution makes the place much more comfortable.

Ideal time to visit: Nov to Feb

Tips: Carry you own Cigarettes, as the hotel does not stock them and not too many options are available in the town. Since most of you will be crossing Pondicherry, you can chose to pick your choice of liquor from this city. Otherwise hotel does have a decent collection of wine and alcohol. The Hotel has limited menu options in food, so don't expect too much of variety. But whatever is available with the hotel tastes good.

Travel time and route: It takes around 6 hours from Chennai to Tranquebar by car and the distance is around 277 Kms. Travel to Pondicherry (I prefer East Coast road)coast road, and from there stick to 45A, touching Cuddalore, Chidambaram, Sirkazhi and Thirukadaiyur. Most of the road is 2 lanes and thus does not allow you to speed up too much.

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Pichavaram - The Healthy Mangrove Forest



Home to second largest mangrove in India, Pichavaram is just four hours drive from Chennai. One the healthiest mangroves in the world, Pichavaram is located very close to the famous temple town of Chidambaram.

The mangroves are spread over 3000 acres with trees rooted in a few feet of water. One of the best ways (or the only way), is to hire a boat and discover the many fascinating water ways. You will encounter hanging branches, dark channels, birds and spiders.



The mangroves supposed to be the healthies in the world are in the backwatersof the Vellar and Coleroon rivers and attract many species of birds including Cormorants, Egrets, Herons, Storks and Pelicans. 

The waters are shallow and not more than 3 to 4 feet deep and you can find enough fishermen walking in the water and trying to catch prawns and crabs. 











Facilities at Pichavaram: Their is a TTDC Hotel and a snack bar serving meals and Indian Chinese. The TTDC also runs a boat house with options of motor boats and rowing boats available. The boats cost from anywhere from  Rs. 300 and Rs. 1200. 


Weather: While the temperature and climate are very similar to Chennai, the almost negligible level of pollution makes the place much more comfortable.

Ideal time to visit: Nov to Feb

Travel time and route: From Pondicherry take the Cuddalore Road to Chidambaram and approximately 15 Kms before Chidambaram (Pondi to Chidambaram is around 70 Kms) take a left. Just before reaching Pichavaram, you will cross a river and within few minutes you will see a golden colored MGR Statue. Take the left after the statue. After you take the left, you will have to drive another 10 Kms before you reach your destination.

Tips: While visit to Pichavaram from Chennai and back can be covered in a day, it is recommended that the same can be clubbed with a stay at Pondicherry or Chidambaram. It is a 60 minutes and 30 minute drive from Pondicherry and Chidambaram respectively. Both Cities offer a lot for tourists. 

Avoid taking a motor boat because it allowed only in a small area. Take a rowing boat, the boat man will ask for Rs.300 as a tip for taking you through the routes that are not covered. Trust me, it is worth it to give him that money. Just relax, enjoy the boat ride and appreciate the wonders of nature.