Srinagar - The Summer Capital of Jammu & Kashmir

Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto. If there is a pardise on earth then this is it, this is it. These are the words that Jehangir used to describe the land of Kashmir.

The history of the land probably starts with the history of mankind itself, the Kashmir has also the site of Neolithic settlement by the name of Burzahom and is believed to have been occupied between about 3000-1500 BC.

Being a Kashmiri, many of friends do ask me that is it safe to visit Kashmir, especially in these troubled times. And my most often my answer is that while the separatist in Kashmir generally do not harm the tourist; past performance may not guarantee the future performance or your safety. 

As per me Kashmir cannot and should not be discovered in a single trip or you should assign minimum 15 days for your visit to valley, if you want to cover it in a single visit.

The first question starts from the choice of mode of travel to Srinagar, the summer capital of J&K. Should it be a direct flight to Srinagar or a road trip trip from Jammu to Srinagar, through the picturesque National Highway 1A. I would recommend that you should choose the road journey onwards to Srinagar and return journey can be either thru air or road.

The road journey to Kashmir starts from the temple city of Jammu and en route has many famous tourist destinations like Katra (Mata Vaishno Devi), Batotote, Khud, Baghilar Dam, Anokhi Water Fall, Patni Top, Jawahar Tunnel and Verinag.

The distance to Srinagar from Jammu is around 293 Kms and can take anywhere from 8-12 hours depending upon the type of vehicle chosen to make the journey.

Leave as early as possible to stop and enjoy the picturesque journey. Stop at Khud to buy the tastiest Patisa in this country from Pehalwan Di Hatti. Take a tea break at Patni Top, and enjoy the views of lush green Pine Trees and the daunting Pir Panchal range. 

Pine Trees, Patnitop

Pir Panchal Range

Have lunch at either Batote or Ramban and order for the favourite Rajma-Chawal. The road though serpentine and some times narrow, is definitely the finest mountain road in India.

Once you reach the world famous Jawahar Tunnel, you may have to get down for a thorough checking of you, your vehicle and luggage. The local Police man posted on duty can act funny and ask for some money. Just ignore him and move forward.

And the moment you cross the Tunnel, the dry and normal breeze changes into a fresh and cool breeze and the weather suddenly becomes more pleasant. If you have crossed tunnel before 1 pm, you can ask your driver to take a detour to Verinag, the source of River Jehlum or Vitasta as known in Kashmir.
 

Verinag is an important tourist spot and often visited by both tourist and locals in equal numbers. The place also religiously important to Kashmiri Pandits, who consider the river mother and Verinag the source of the river and a holy spot.

Leave Verinag by 4 pm so that you are in Srinagar City before it is dark. While Srinagar is a big city, most of the hotels are located  around Dal Lake and Residency Road area.

Do not get bogged by the sheer number of armed forces you will see in Kashmir Valley. Many of you may see in one day more numbers of jawans than you would have seen in your entire life. Treat their presence as welcome and assure yourself that incase required, help is close by and there are people to protect you.

Srinagar is the summer capital of J&K and the name comes from two Sanskrit words, namely, Sri (meaning abundance and wealth) and Nagar, which means a city. Thus, the word Srinagar signifies a place of wealth and abundance. Sri is also the name of a goddess Lakshmi of Hindus. Sri is also used for, sun, hence the word could mean, city of the sun.

It is believed that  Mauryan Emperor Ashoka founded the original city of Srinagar, on the site of the present village of Pandrathan, 3 miles to the North of the existing capital.

The city of Srinagar is much more that the just famous Dal lake, Mughal gardens or Hazratbal. The history of Kashmir dates back to more than 3000 B.C.

Of course you should start your day with a boat ride in the beautiful but rapidly shrinking Dal Lake. The prices for 4 hour Shikara ride could cost you anywhere from Rs. 400 to Rs. 1200 depending upon the tourist season and rush. Ask the Shikara guy to take you see the floating gardens and the waterways, which connect it with residential area like Rainawari. The trip to Rainawari will highlight the irreversible impact terrorism has on the valley. You fill find beautiful and ancient temples and large house of Kashmiri Pandits, closed and in ruins with no one to rake care of them. Just probe the boatman and he will surely do a good lip service on how he misses Pandits and wishes them to come back. He will also hold the ex-governor Jagmohan responsible for the exodus of Kashmir, and absolve all the Islamic terrorist groups of the crime.

Shikara Ride, Dal Lake

Dal Lake with 

Shankracharya Temple in Background

Flower Seller, Dal Lake

Ideally you should dedicate entire one day to your trip to discover Dal Lake and the Mughal gardens. The famous Mughal gardens of Nishat and Shalimar can be covered by Shikara itself. 

If you like your liquor, carry it with you. Having your favourite single malt on a Shikara is an unforgettable experience. No need to carry any snacks, as the lake has multiple floating bazaars, offering from Chips, soda, mineral water to tasty roasted Kebabs called Tuj Kebab.

Enjoying Drink on a Shikara

Srinagar offers multiple opportunities for religious tourism for people of almost all the faiths. There are mosques, temples, gurudwaras, Sufi shrines and tomb of Jesus. Yes, you read it right, Jesus. Many historians claim that both Jesus and Moses died in #Kashmir. Though not proved, the locals prefer to believe in these claims.

27 Kms from Srinagar is the holy spring of Kheer Bhawani. One of the holiest temples of Kashmiri Pandits, the Godess is an incarnation of Sati and the idol is placed in a spring that changes colour quite regularly.

Mata Kheer Bhwani

Hazratbal, your next stop is a famous mosque for many reasons. This mosque also plays an important role in the politics of the valley. The mosque is located on the banks of Dal Lake and apart from its beautiful construction; it houses the hair of Prophet Muhammad. This mosque again makes the Islam of Kashmir unique in many ways and gives Hazratbal the distinction of perhaps the only mosque in world to hold a relic of Prophet Muhammad.

Hazratbal Mosque

Now it is time to visit the two presiding deities of Srinagar. Both reside at the famous hill by the name Hari Parbat.

 

Hari Parbat Fort

Temple of Sharika, the presiding deity of Kashmiri Pandits is on the western slopes. The temple is supposed to be as old as Kashmir itself. The story goes that the Hari Parbat hill was once a huge lake inhabited by the demon Jalobhava. The inhabitants called on the goddess Parvati for help. She took the form of a bird and dropped a pebble on the demon's head, which grew larger and larger until it crushed the demon. Hari Parbat is revered as that pebble, and is said to have become the home for all the gods of the Hindu pantheon. Another version of the myth says that two demons, Tsand and Mond, occupied the fair valley. Tsand hid in the water near the present location of Hari Parbat and Mond somewhere above the present Dal Gate, and both terrorized the people of the valley. The gods invoked Parvati who assumed the form of a Haer (myna) and flew to Sumer, picked up a pebble in her beak, and threw it on the demon Tsand to crush him. The pebble grew into a mountain.

The shrine of Sheikh Hamza Makhdum, also known as Makhdoom Sahib or Hazrat Sultan, is located towards the southern side of Hari Parbat Hill. This double storied, many-pillared structure displays a remarkable architectural style. This shrine is visited not only by Muslims but by people of all faiths, throughout the year.

Just close your eyes and go back to the bollywood of 70’s and 80’s and imagingine the lovely gardens in which our hero and heroine are singing their duet song. Every time you will close your eyes you will only see the famous Mughal Gardens of Kashmir. Whether it is Nishat, Shalimar or Chashme Shahi, the gardens have been eternal part of our movies.

The largest of these three is the Shalimar Garden followed by Nishat and Chashme Shahi respectively. While the all three were built by the Mughals, the third garden, located on the foothills of zabarwan and slightly away from the two has an interesting piece of history attached to it. The place originally derives its name from the spring which is supposedly discovered by the great female saint of Kashmir, Rupa Bhawani. The family name of Rupa Bhawani was 'Sahib' and the spring was originally called 'Chashme Sahibi'. Over the years the name got corrupted and today the place is known as Chashme Shahi (the Royal Spring).

Later a garden was created around the spring by the Mughal Governor Ali Mardan. 

Nishat Garden

NIshat Garden

Chashme Shahi

Shalimar Garden

Shalimar Garden

Just a mile away from Chashme Shahi is the famous garden by the name Pari Mahal. Built in the mid-seventeenth century on the ruins of a Buddhist monastery by Prince Dara Shikoh, the eldest son of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, the place was used as an observatory for the teaching of astrology and astronomy. 

Pari Mahal

Sunset from Pari Mahal

Close to Pari Mahal and Chashme Shahi are the other two famous attractions of Srinagar, the palace of the erstwhile royal family and the famous temple of Goddess Zeestha and known as Zeethyar.

The Palace, now a five star hotel and is known as The Lalit. The temple is just a 15 minutes walk from the palace. The view from the palace is breathtaking and trusts me, one of the finest you will ever get to see from any of the hotels in the world.

Goddess Zeestha

One of the wings of The Lalit

Another famous landmark of Srinagar and visited by almost every tourist is Shaknracharya Temple. Located on the top of the hill by the same name, the temple is said to be more than 2000 year old. It is said the Adi Shankracharya visited the temple and thus the name. The temple is also an important post for CRPF as it gives a birdeye view if the city of Srinagar including the strategic Badami Bagh Army Cantonment. 

Steps to Shaknracharya Temple

Shivling Shaknracharya Temple

While Dal Lake has most of the important tourist attractions, the life of the local residents revolves around the river Jehlum. On the banks of the Jehlum are many important temples, mosques and monuments.  A cruise on the river is worth a try. It gives you quick snap shot of the city.

Pathar Masjid, located on the banks of river Jehlum near the locality of Fathekadal, is the biggest surviving Mughal structure in Kashmir. Built by the Empress Noor Jahan, somewhere around 1620 A.D, has never used for prayers by the local Muslims. It is said on being asked about the cost of the mosques, the queen pointed towards her emerald studded shows and said not more than them. This infuriated the local mullahs and they declared mosque to be desecrated and not fit for prayer.

Roza Bal, is one of the most intriguing attractions of Kashmir. Believed by many to be the grave of Jesus, the shrine is located in area of Khanyar. Revered by locals, many believe that Yusuf, (as Jesus is known in Indian Subcontinent) moved to Kashmir after surviving crucification and is buried here. In this tomb, you will see carved footprints on the grave stones and when closely examined, carved images of a crucifix and a rosary. The footprints of Yuz Asaf have what appear to be scars represented on both feet, if one assumes that they are crucifixion scars, then their position is consistent with the scars shown in the Turin Shroud (left foot nailed over right). Crucifixion was not practised in Asia, so it is quite possible that they were inflicted elsewhere, such as the Middle East. The tomb is called by some as "Hazrat Issa Sahib" or "Tomb of the Lord Master Jesus".

Also believed to be in Kashmir is the tomb of Moses, located at around in the town of Bandipore, around 60 kms from Srinagar.

Srinagar is city of lakes and has apart from Dal Lake, has two other famous lakes Nagin and Aanchar within the City and Manasbal Lake at a distance of 50 Kms from Srinagar. While Aanchar has mostly dried, thanks to pollution and illegal reclamation, the Nagin Lake has largely survived the greed of man till now.I personally consider and find Nagin Lake a more beautiful and serene than the famous Dal Lake. Separated from the Dal Lake by a thin causeway, Nagin is a perfect place to relax as it is less crowded and surrounded by beautiful trees.

Ideal time to visit: April to August

Tips: Always check news before you leave for valley. Any news of disturbance, please do avoid travel. Do carry you choice of liquor. While Liquor is available in Srinagar, it is only at 3 shops and the selection is limited. Bootleggers are available but then again choice is limited and but the price is not. Pre-paid mobile are not allowed roaming in Jammu & Kashmir, so always carry a post paid roaming connection. Preferably book in advance and always be clear in your bargains with shop keepers, Shikara and taxi walas. Avoid creating nusiance in public or drinking in Public. The Time of July to Mid August is always crowded because of Amarnath Yatra, so please book your hotel in advance. 

Do carry one light sweater, jacket in Summer. Change of weather can make it chilly

Travel time and route: Many flights from almost all major metros. Well connected by road. Nearest Railway Station, Jammu Tawi (300 KMs).